Iran: Following the Sign

Walking back from Qavam House/ Naranjestan Museum towards Shiraz city centre, I noted on the map that there is this place called Masjid Nasir al-Mulk, just off the main road that I was walking along. If you've been reading this Iran travelogue from the beginning, you'd know that I'd only decided to come to Iran just about a week before the trip started, so I didn't really study about the places to visit. I just decided on the cities - that I would like to visit Tehran, Esfahan & Shiraz (the last city was mainly because I wanted to go and see Persepolis, and because I could fly out direct to Dubai instead of retracing my steps back to Tehran). As such, I didn't know if I should visit this Masjid Nasir al-Mulk. I mean, my first instinct was more like "how could any other masjid (mosque) in Iran top that of Masjid Imam in Esfahan?"

I was thus ready to skip it and walk straight back to the city centre when I saw the signboard by the main road showing the direction to the masjid. I thought this could only mean one thing, that it is a tourist destination. From the main road, I could see the masjid looks unassuming, blending in with the rest of the buildings in the area. Yup, definitely nothing like Masjid Imam or Masjid Sheikh Lotf Allah in Esfahan, I told myself. So unassuming it is, I don’t think any foreign visitor would actually care to venture inside the masjid after looking at it from the outside. But still, I followed the signboard and walked along the secondary road towards the masjid.

Upon entering the building complex, I was greeted with a simple courtyard surrounded by beautifully tiled walls and facades that appear to be synonym with old masjids in Iran. The masjid, by the way, was built in the late 19th century by Nasir al-Mulk, one of the lords during the Qajar Dynasty. Today, it is still very much in use and the general upkeep of the masjid is maintained by its own endowment foundation.

The courtyard of Masjid Nasir al-Mulk

I started walking along the corridors that surround the courtyard and couldn't stop feeling grateful that I actually decided to follow the sign rather than my instinct. The arches, the ceilings, the tiles, oh my! Everything was just perfect.

The corridor just outside the museum.

I just love, love, LOVE looking at the intricacy and details of the work involved here. It's just crazy! And these are just from the areas around the courtyard of the masjid. One side of the courtyard is dedicated to a small museum while a prayer hall occupies the other side.

Inside the museum.

From the small museum, I walked across the courtyard, took off my shoes and entered the prayer hall of the masjid. The hall looked a bit small to me, in relation to the whole of the building complex. Perhaps it's designed to reflect the place as more of a community centre rather than just a place of worship? I don't know. There's hardly anyone around though. In fact, I was the only person inside the deserted prayer hall, which was fine by me as it allowed me to enjoy the beauty and serenity of the place in solitude.

Again, everything was just perfect. The columns and the arches, the ceilings and the tiles, the walls and the stained glass windows... Everything somehow just blends nicely to create a harmonised and peaceful setting. A perfect setting for a prayer (or two).

I'm just glad I decided to follow the sign.

Now tell me, what do you think of the masjid? Don't you want to visit and see it for yourself?

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